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How to get 500,000 Miles Out of Your Car’s Engine

Written by Gary North on April 11, 2012

I keep coming back to this story every five years or so. New subscribers have not read about it. Old-time subscribers forget.

The secret is the Frantz oil filter. It uses a roll of toilet paper as the filter.

“An oil filter that uses toilet paper. What a joke!”

It is not a joke. But the universal customer response is initially something like this.

The toilet paper filters out everything larger than half a micron. This removes virtually all metal particles. The oil stays clean physically 100% of the time. There is no grit to wear out metal parts.

Toilet paper also removes water, thereby reducing all acid creation to zero: no water — no acid. The oil is pure chemically.

Oil does not wear out. It just gets dirty. A roll of toilet paper keeps oil clean all of the time.

Change the toilet paper once every 5,000 miles, add a quart of oil to replace the oil absorbed by the used roll, and your engine’s oil stays clean. The engine will not wear out for 500,000 miles. The car’s body will wear out first.

The oil is always clean. It does not go from clean to dirty in between oil changes, as it does with a normal oil filter.

Note: the best toilet paper to use is the cheap commercial kind: 500 two-ply sheets. The standard “soft” kinds have 350 sheets: less paper, more air, and higher profits for the manufacturers. Scott 1000 also works.

Back in the 1960s, there was a rival product to the Frantz called the Motor Guard. I used one of these units on my 1956 VW from 1965 until I sold the car in 1971. It worked as advertised.

Later, I switched to a Frantz. I changed my oil three times in 125,000 miles on my 1972 Toyota Corolla. A decade later, I had a mechanic strip the engine to see what shape it was in. He said that every part was within original factory specifications. He had been a skeptic. After he did the test, he wrote an article for my newsletter, Remnant Review, praising it.

You can still buy a Frantz here: http://www.frantzoil.com/home.html.

You must pay a mechanic to install it or install it yourself.

A competing product is sold by the Amsoil company, although it doesn’t use toilet paper for the filter. You buy Amsoil filter rolls. It works just fine.

These are by-pass filters. They are added into your existing oil filtration system, which will no longer have anything to filter.

Here is a good reason why you probably won’t buy a Frantz or an Amsoil by-pass filter: engines today fill most of the the space under the hood. There is little room for one of these by-pass filters. I wish there were.


The Frantz has never really caught on. There are reasons for this.

First, there was too much resistance to the claim of the original manufacturer: End Oil Changes. It seems impossible — too good to be true.

Second, there are endless rumors about how the toilet paper can shred and ruin your engine. This is a so-called urban myth. Oil-drenched toilet paper does not shred. Also, for advertising purposes only, the units have a fine mesh screen to prevent this.

For the rest of the story, click the link.

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9 thoughts on “How to get 500,000 Miles Out of Your Car’s Engine

  1. What good is it if it does not fit your system?

  2. I heard that the filter would separate after about 500 to 1000 miles and possibly clog the oil passages.

  3. Thank you, sir.

    Had a Frantz from the '60's thru the 70's. I gave it to my Dad but when he died I lost track of it. Worked just as you state. If I left the filter in too long it would finally jam and push the canister cover up ( stupid lazy kid). Miss that thing and hope to find another.

    There were loads of places to mount it – just ran longer hoses to the mounting point. Easy to tap into the oil flow as well.

    The first time I changed a roll I couldn't believe the visible chunks of metal it caught on the intake side. REALLY scary, double filters or not. You're right about acid – these new supposedly long-interval oils still have a problem with debris and with acids which form from the condensation inside the valve covers, etc. when you start and stop the engine, especially if frequently as you do in city driving). Eats up bearings.

    I also had a Fish 1-barrel carburetor and it worked like a charm as well. It was also lost with my father's estate. Wonder if there's a place to get one of them as well?

    I'd just as soon chuck all the computer crap and go back to plugs, points, condenser and coil. SO SIMPLE and SO INEXPENSIVE, spares were easy to carry and easy to install anywhere day or night. Eyeball the advance/dwell and it and it worked just fine, thank you. No EMP issues either.

    Our income and buying power has constantly fallen, so they made car payments stretch out longer to accommodate the breathtaking rise in MSRP. You can't buy parts any more either – you buy assemblies. THE CAR OWNS YOU. Crock of crap.


  4. Bryan Morton says:

    I have also heard, (could be just an old wives' tale), that the first thing you should do if you purchase a new car, is take it to your mechanic and have all of the fluids and filters changed. Just like cleaning a new rifle before you ever fire it.. There is debris left in the engine from the manufacturing process. Getting rid of as much as you can before it has the chance to cause scarring will make your engine last longer.

  5. I saw the Amzoil one in action and yes the oil was never changed on the engine only the filter and some oil to replace what you lost with the filter change and the oil always looked brand new. However it was synthetic oil you wont get the same results with regular oil as it is organic and it will decompose over time.

  6. Toilet paper is made from recycled paper and from the weakest pulp available, it should be its use is well known…but not as an oil filter. Several years ago a technical school teacher friend of,mine got one of these filters and followed their rules and approximately 6 months later his engine was ruined. the very small celulose fibers went right through the filter and oil lines until they finally started clogging in a major oil line cutting off the full needed oil supply. I am well on my way to getting great miles on my '04 Chevy blazer but there is no secret about it. I have used synthetic oil in it since it was new and today it has about 250,000 miles on the odometer and carries a full 50 lbs of oil pressure at 45 mph and above. I use 10W-30 rather than 5W-30 since I live in a Southern State with a milder climate. I change the oil every 7,500 to 9,000 miles. Oil filters are much cheaper than a new engine. Really want to save $ look at your transmission, I change the filter and completely drain and put new fluid in every 35,000 to 40,000 miles. Dirty transmission fluid will do a lot of damage.

  7. You are dead on about the transmission. You want a real repair bill, don't change the fluid in a auto transmission. After a few years, you will have a really large repair bill. Just to repair a transmission can cost more than a new engine. Also, check that seal around the dipstick tube too. They are bad to leak which leads to it being low on fluid. Bad things happen.

    As for the engine itself, change oil and use a good oil filter. I use Purolator after switching away from Fram. I actually took one apart. I didn't like the internal parts one bit. I wouldn't put a Fram on my mower.

    As a friend once told me, if you can only afford to change EITHER the oil or the filter, change the filter. Clean old oil is better than dirty new oil.

    I own a 1994 Mazda Protege with 186,000 miles on it. Except for trying to run ethanol in it, it runs great. I get ~30mpg. By the way, the ethanol test cost me about $300. Tore up all sorts of good stuff.

  8. Jon Golt says:

    I had a 1990 3/4 ton Chevy Pick up 4X4, Over 400.000 on it before I sold it. Took the filter system off and put on a different car. in a pile up and lost it all. Great Filter system. if i could find another one, used and could get it I would and put it in my 2000 3/4 T Chevy 4X4. With the hydrogen bubblier Generator and the Frantz one should have a Car/Truck for year's and get GREAT mileage!

  9. I’ve used at least one of these since since the 1960’s. I initially drove a 1965 Pontiac which had about 50K on it when installed. No oil change to over 100K and then sent the oil in for analysis. I came back good with 15 ppm silica which is borderline due for an oil change. I could not get information on the size of particles though but I believe the claim of half a micron to be accurate. No full flow filter can remove particles that small and still allow 25 gallons per minute oil to pass to the bearings. Never had any problem with shredding. I was able to find a few used over the years and eventually resorted to building my own (I have my own lathe and welders. The can is tapered and jams the roll in very tight) when I couldn’t find more. I put them on everything, tractors, trucks, I drove and still use two. The problem I ran into was as mentioned. Space. And replacement toilet paper. New rolls don’t fit. I have at least two Franz filters sitting on the shelf now. (for sale if anyone wants them)